Tuesday 16th April I left home early afternoon driving to Stansted Airport which took just on 2 hours. Parked at the Jetparks long term parking. a quick bus transfer to the terminal where I dropped off my suitcase at the Jet2 desk. A 5 minute walk and I was at the Hampton Hotel
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| My room at the Hampton by Hilton Hotel |
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| The bathroom |
I love a nice bathroom but was so disappointed by the pathetic pressure in the shower.
Having dinner that evening in the restaurant I was served by Joe a very camp waiter, the 2 ladies on the next table provided entertainment for me as they charmed him into looking after them. Little did I know these 2 were to be on the same tour.
With breakfast included in the price bang on 4 am I was in the restaurant, grabbed some bacon and bread for a bacon sarnie and a few pain au chocolate in my pocket I headed for security at the terminal.
I was ushered into a line where they were testing leaving laptops and fluids in your hand luggage, and not removing clothing and belts. However I was stopped because of my metal hooks on my walking boots. A quick check and I was through security in 10 minutes. I was amazed how busy departures was but with speedy boarding and my flight on time we arrived at Mytilini airport ahead of schedule.
A bit of a wait to get through security and passport control, but the luggage was there already. Another bit of await while our tour leader Rob collected the minibus. We then transferred to Skala Kalloni which took just on the hour and checked into The Malemi Hotel.
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| My room |
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| Malemi Pool from my room |
We took lunch of a toasted cheese sandwich just down the road at a taverna on the beach before heading off to the salt pans for some birding.
Stopping en route at the bridge over The Tsiknias River was saw Wood Sandpipers, Little Egrets, Glossy Ibis and an eastern race Jay
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| Little Egrets and Glossy Ibis on the river |
On the salt pans were numerous waders but the star bird was a pair of Broad-billed Sandpipers a lifer for me although distant they gave good scope views.
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| Very distant Broad-billed Sandpipers (Lifer for me) |
Several hundred Flamingos were there among Black-winged Stilts, Ruff, Marsh Sandpipers, Avocet and Greenshank
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| Salt pans with Flamingos |
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| Flamingos |
A White Stork put in an appearance
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| White Stork |
In the fields behind we saw our first of many Corn Buntings
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| Corn Bunting |
and Crested Larks
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| Crested Lark |
A surprise bird was this female Hen Harrier that flew over.
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| Hen Harrier |
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| Hen Harrier |
Further along the track we found several Black-headed Yellow Wagtails.
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| Black-headed Wagtail |
and an elusive Blue-headed Yellow Wagtail
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| Blue-headed Wagtail |
After a long day we returned to the hotel for a shower and a delicious dinner.
Thursday 18th , we took a pre breakfast walk towards the beach where a couple of pools held 2 Common Snipe, Wood Sandpiper and our first of many Eastern Olivaceous Warblers of the trip. On returning back to the hotel a Nightingale was singing as it did every morning and night for the whole week but never was visible.
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| Wood Sandpiper |
After breakfast we headed for Metochi Lake stopping en route I found a Wryneck and while trying to relocate it others saw an Eastern Orphean Warbler, also seen was a Sardinian Warbler and a Woodchat Shrike. At the lake we got poor views of a Little Crake under a bridge. Carole found a Little Bittern which I missed but I did find a Squacco Heron. There was also a couple of Purple Herons.
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| Purple Heron |
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| Terrapins |
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| Woodchat Shrike |
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| Woodchat Shrike |
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| Woodchat Shrike |
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| Purple Heron |
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| Sardinian Warbler |
By now it was nearly lunch time and we headed around the bay towards Achladeri Forest but stopping for our first of the trip Short-toed Eagle near by.
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| Short-toed Eagle |
In the forest we ate our packed lunch, a Golden Oriole was heard but not found. While the majority of the group were looking for plants Clare, Carol and I went for a walk up the track into the hills where we had our first Black-eared Wheatears, a Masked Shrike and superb views over the bay.
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| View from half way up the hill |
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| View at the top of the hill |
Having lost the rest of the group that had returned to the mini bus we decided to return and stopping off at a stream Steve had found an Odalisque and Four Spotted Chaser.
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| Odalisque |
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Four Spotted Chaser
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Returning to minibus there was a sighting of a Krupers Nuthatch but as I only saw its back end fly away I couldnt tick it. Stopping off at a bit of wetland where Pygmy Comorants had been reported but not seen by us. We returned to the hotel for the evening.
Friday 19th. This morning our pre breakfast trip took us the western river The River Christou, and then towards the beach passing the Agean Hotel where we bumped into the Heatherlea tour. On the wetland there we found several hundred Flamingos, 2 Kentish Plovers, 3 Little-ringed Plovers and around 40 Little Stints. As usual there were hundreds of Spanish Sparrows around the hotel.
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| Kentish Plover |
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| Little Stint |
After breakfast we headed for the Tsiknias River mouth, stopping at an obvious dogging site we heard and then saw a flock of around 20 Bee-eaters flying around with some landing.
At the river mouth were Common and a couple of Little Terns and three Spur-winged Plovers while Carol found a pair of Shags on the sea.
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| Shags |
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| Spur-winged Plovers mating |
Walking back to the mini bus in the bushes an Eastern Olivaceous warbler was singing
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| Eastern Olivaceous Warbler |
After coffee in Skala Kalloni we drove to the western side of the gulf enjoying brilliant sunshine and temperature in the mid - high 20's. Our next stop was at a chapel at Agia Ioannis where we saw an Alpine Swift, Northern Wheatears, Winchats, a Black Stork flew over and both forms of Black-eared Wheatear.
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Black-eared Wheatear
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Our next stop was for lunch at the lovely fishing village Apothika, where the taverna was open so with thanks to Ken I enjoyed a coffee in the shade
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| Apothika Harbour |
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| Apothika Taverna |
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| Barn Swallows nesting in the eves of the Taverna |
A wander around the village and we found more Black-eared Wheatears
There were numerous Yellow-legged Gulls which nest on the island just off shore
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| Yellow-legged Gull |
I was delighted that Steve found this Eastern Orphean Warbler in the village especially with me missing out on the one yesterday.
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| Eastern Orphean Warbler |
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| Eastern Orphean Warbler. |
Leaving the village we continued towards the mouth of the gulf stopping at a point where Rob spotted a Rock Nuthatch. Unfortunately it didnt hang around for long but I managed a couple of shots.
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| Rock Nuthatch |
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| Rock Nuthatch (cropped) |
On the opposite side of the road there was a lot of bird activity with Yellow wagtails, more Black-eared Wheatears, Winchat, and a pair of Isabeline Wheatears.
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| Isabeline Wheatear |
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| Isabeline Wheatear |
Another stop further along the road towards the beach we found more Yellow Wagtails
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| Blue-headed Yellow Wagtail |
and a distant Blue Rock Thrush, a Cirl Bunting and several Crested Larks
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| Blue Rock Thrush |
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| Cirl Bunting |
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| Crested Lark |
Down at the beach there was a huge flock of Yellow-legged Gulls, a Common Sandpiper and several Ruff. On the journey back to the hotel before getting back onto the tarmac road we a saw our first Chukka of the trip.
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| Chukka |
Back at the hotel with it being a lovely evening 4 of us went into Skala Kalloni and sat beside the beach at a taverna for an after dinner drink.
Saturday 20th A big change in the weather over night with heavy rain, a Scops Owl was heard calling during the night and Rob found it in a Eucalyptus tree in the car park just as we were about to depart to the west coast of the island.
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| Eurasian Scops Owl |
We headed off in dull and misty conditions on a new road. Stopping on the way overlooking a woodland where Nightingales were singing and apparently saw 2 Levant Sparrowhawks but I missed them. Carrying on to Ipsolu Monastery where there was low cloud Clare and I decided to walk to the top not seeing much in the thick mist. On arrival at the top apart from looking at the Monastery there was no birdlife other than a Black-eared Wheatear and a Rock Nuthatch that only Rob saw.
From there we went into Sigri a small harbour and had a coffee while we watched the rain. It was now time for lunch and drove to Faneromeni beach spotting a Masked Shrike just on the outskirts of Sigri.
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| Masked Shrike |
At the beach we spent a good hour while Steve tried to photograph the Yelkouan Shearwaters off shore possibly there was a Scopollis amongst them. Clare and Colin managed to find a bar and left us others to be battered by the wind and rain.
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| Yelkouan Shearwaters |
After lunch we drove back to the main road stopping several times as there seemed to be a fall of migrants including several Hoopoe
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| Hoopoe |
Plus Turtle Doves, Spotted and Collared Flycatchers, Woodchat Shrikes.
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| Spotted Flycatcher |
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| Collared Flycatcher |
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| Turtle Doves |
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| Woodchat Shrike |
A Red-footed Falcon previously seen over the sea whizzed by and a Montagues Harrier was hunting over the fields
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| Red-footed Falcon |
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| Montagues Harrier |
We next headed back towards the Petrified Forest where on arrival it was closed but back at altitude the weather was dull and misty. Our consolation was a Cretzschmars Bunting on the side of the road.
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| Cretzschmars Bunting |
Our final stop of the day was at a village just outside of Skala Kalloni where a pair of Long-eared Owls had been reported. Our guides couldn't find them but eagle eyed Colin did.
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| Long-eared Owl |
Having spent most of the day in the minibus some of us decided to walk back to the hotel.
A disappointing day that I felt could have been better arranged considering the forecast and actual weather conditions.
That evening after dinner not being tired Clare and I left the others in the bar and had a walk along the beach.
Sunday 21st. A bright morning and our pre breakfast walk took us down to the Kalloni pools again, the Nightingale was singing and not seen, there were plenty of hirundines around including 3 Red-rumped Swallows. Once again an Eastern Olivaceous Warbler was singing and showing well
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| Eastern Olivaceous Warbler |
After breakfast our first stop was at the bridge over the River Tsikinias several Wood Sandpipers were seen and a close Little Ringed Plover
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| Little Ringed Plover |
Stopping at a pine woodland found little of bird interest and our next stop was at another forest near Mikri Limni. A bit of searching we got glimpses of a pair of Krupers Nuthatch but no photos. We then headed to the mountain village of Agiassos - being a Sunday it was packed with locals and tourists so probably not the best choice of what to do today. However after a walk around some of us found a bar for a coffee only to be joined a few minutes later by the rest of the group. The plan was to look for plants so we all headed up a track and had our lunch. After lunch Colin retired to a bar, Clare and I went for a walk up the hill when someone stopped us and showed us a short cut to Mount Olympos the highest point on the island.
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| Mount Olympos |
On the way up we had fantastic views of Agiagos
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| Agiagos |
As we were limited to time to be back at the mini bus we had to retrace our steps but had probably got three quarters of the way there
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| Mount Olympos |
On our way back to the hotel we stopped somewhere near the sea waters edge where there was a small wetland and had close views of Black-winged Stilt and Flamingos
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| Flamingo and Stilt |
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| Flamingo |
Once again the Pygmy Cormorants could not be found here, but was advised of there location. So stopping at the Kalami Pool we found four.
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| 3 of the 4 Pygmy Cormorants |
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| Pygmy Cormorant |
In the ditch nearby a green frog was there and a White Stork in the field across the road
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| Green Frog sp. |
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| White Stork |
Finally we stopped at the Kalloni salt pans again, most of the waders had moved on. Yellow wagtails were in the fields and the flock of Glossy Ibis were still there but distant.
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| Glossy Ibis |
With today being a bit tiring a drink after dinner in the hotel this time and off to bed.
Monday 22nd At dinner last night I suggested we went somewhere different pre breakfast like a woodland as early morning is always most productive. The guides didn't seem too keen but they offered an early morning visit to Metochi Lake which ended up being far more productive than our previous visit. We had exceptional views of Little Bittern, Squacco Herons, Little Crakes and Great Reed Warbler.
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| Squacco Heron |
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| Little Bittern |
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| Little Bittern |
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| Little Crake |
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| Little Crake |
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| Eurasian Reed Warbler |
After breakfast a bit later than normal we had the punctured tyre fixed before heading back to the Petrified Forest, the weather was cool but dry, later became sunny. At the forest some of us decided on walking the 3k route before lunch. Avian highlights included,
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| Pied Flycatcher |
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| Black-eared Wheatear |
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| Winchat |
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| Cretzsmars Bunting |
Other things of interest were
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| Spur-thighed Tortoise |
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| Southern White Admiral |
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| Part of the Petrified Forest |
While having lunch at the visitor centre I noticed Colin and Steve had been watching a bush some distance away for around 10 minutes and with Steve with his camera aimed I went to investigate and was told Colin had found a Rupell's Warber. After a few minutes it appeared briefly then flew. Unfortunately by the time the majority of the group got there it had gone.
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| Rupell's Warbler |
Driving back slowly some got a tail end view of a Cinereous Bunting but despite searching we couldn't re locate it. Another stop around the base of Ipsolu found nothing for me, we then headed towards Eressos for coffee but stopping at a site overlooking a valley where we found a Black Stork nest and a Raven trying to steal one of the 3 eggs.
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| Black Storks with Raven |
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Black Stork's nest
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In Eressos our coffee order was taken promptly but took 45 minutes for every one to be served as the locals seemed to get priority. While waiting Colin spotted a pair of Laughing Doves on a wire, I just managed 1 shot as they took off. Clare found a Blackcap in the tree opposite
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| Laughing Dove |
The evening after dinner was spent back at the taverna on the beach.
Tuesday 23rd. Our last full day, the pre breakfast walk found nothing new for me. After breakfast we made our way to Molivos stopping at the Kalloni Raptor watch point. Only a buzzard was seen but we had good views of a Cirl Bunting collecting food and with there obviously a nest near by we moved on.
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| Cirl Bunting |
Further along the road we stopped by a rough track and took a walk along where we found Red-backed Shrike, Eastern Subalpine Warbler, and Masked Shrike plus Peregrine, Buzzard and Short-toed Eagle were flyovers.
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| Red-backed Shrike |
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| Eastern Subalpine Warbler |
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| Short-toed Eagle |
Another stop was just before Petra over looking the coast where we spent a good half an hour seeing nothing but apparently it used to be a good birding stop 10 years ago!
Next we spent an hour or so in the town of Molivos where we had coffee at a waterside bar, by now the weather glorious again so the shade was welcome.
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| Molivos Harbour |
We arrived back to mini bus at the required time and while waiting we saw on the cliffs above a Blue Rockthrush
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| Colin, Carol and Clare (where was Ken?) |
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| Blue Rockthrush |
Next we took a dirt track along the side of the cliffs (not for the faint hearted) that took about half an hour to get to our lunch stop at the fishing village of Skala Sykamnias. The packed lunch of cold Omelette and chips didn't go down too well with most to the extent Carol and Clare had lunch in a restaurant.
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| Skala Sykamnias |
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| Ladies that lunch! |
Eventually we moved onto to the Napi Valley and pulling over onto a lay by where there were some other birders we had great views albeit distant of up to 6 Golden Orioles, a pair of Sombre Tits European Nuthatch and a Rock Nuthatch.
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| Rock Nuthatch if you can find it |
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| Golden Oriole male |
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| Golden Oriole male |
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| Golden Oriole female |
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| Golden Oriole female |
Back in the hotel we started packing for our journey home, after dinner we had a drink in the hotel bar before heading for the taverna where we had our lunch on arrival day. The young girl serving kept us entertained by playing music of our requests and serving a local spirit which was pure alcohol. A fitting end to our trip was the Kinks.
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| Hotel Bar Carol, Colin, Clare and Ken and Mikki behind |
Wednesday 24th, a pre breakfast walk again with much the same. Final pack of the bags and we headed for the airport for our 12.30 on time flight back to Stansted. Arriving 14.10, luggage collected I was home just after 5pm.
Conclusion:- For me I saw 126 species, of which 13 were lifers. Lesvos is a lovely island and somewhere I will return to. The Honeyguide tour had some disappointments there was no organised rotation of seating in the mini bus and car. The radios were not charged up ready for the trip. One guide hadnt been there since 2010 and the other 2014 and so we only visited "the old sites", some bad decisions on visiting Ipsolu in low cloud, visiting Agiagos on the busiest day of the week to name a few.
The company however was great and thank you to all.
